'07 Mazdaspeed 3, ILL3ST

This is my DD!


Mazdaspeed 3:

Engine:
TurboXS FMIC
RPMC 2.5" Black Powder coated Turbo Inlet Pipe
CP-E Nano SRI
CP-E Downpipe w/Cat and Swaintech coating
CP-E 75 Duro Rear Motor Mount
CP-E 75 Duro Passenger Motor Mount
CP-E 75 Duro Transmission Mount
PT-P Kicker Mount
HKS HiPower 3" CBE
HKS SSQV Blow off valve
HKS Twin Power DLI II Ignition
HKS Spark plugs
Mrlilguy Cam driven fuel pump
Whoosh PnP IM in black chrome w/VTCS and EGR delete.
PT-P Phenolic IM spacer
Whoosh Ported TB
Candy Red Valve Cover
Saiko Michi OCC
PTP Wastegate actuator
Bnoon banjo bolt

ECU tuning:
Cobb AP ATR tuned to 18psi
or
CP-E FullControl Flash / Fuel Cut Eliminator Flash
CP-E Standback with Plug and Play Harness

Suspension:
Hotchki Front and Rear Sway bars
Mazdaspeed Coilovers (KW Variant 3)
Mazdaspeed Rear camber links
KMac Camber plates with custom top hats
Powergrid Adjustable Front end links

Exterior:
AutoExe bumper with custom aluminum splitter (summer)
AutoExe replica badgeless CF grill/OEM bumper/Garage Vary replica lip (winter)
Auto-folding/LED/Courtesy light/Wide angle mirrors
JDM rain guards
Sharkfin
35/20 tint
Batman style flying M in flat black/clear coat

Interior:
Bride Gias Carbon Kevlar Racing Seat
Bride Lowmax Passenger Seat
Cobb Short Throw Shifter, Cobb shifter weight
Redline leather Shift & Ebrake boot and console covers
Autoexe CF shift knob
Prosport CF ebrake cover
TWM Shifter Bushings
Dashhawk v2
Custom 350z gauge pod.
Defi BF 60mm Gauges (Boost, Oil Temp, Oil Press)
Innovate XD-16 Wideband gauge
Sok7 acceleration pedal

Lights:
Stock HIDs
3000k HID fogs with yellow Lamin-X
Angel eyes
Stealth Auto Turn signals
Smoked Sidemarkers
Red and black tinted tails

Wheels:
Summer: Advan RG II Gold 18x8.5 +50 with Bridgetone RE01R 255/35-18
Winter: Advan Model T7 17x7 with Hankook Ice Bears
Ichiba 45mm extended studs on the fronts

Other:
Big 3 in 1/0 wire
POR-15 on underbody parts
lots of sound deadening, audio, custom ipod mount, etc...
Alarm/Remote Start/Turbo Timer
Redline Tuning Elite Hoodlifts
-----------------------------------------------

Old Mods:
PTP SST K04 (RIP)
Streetunit Motor Mount
Streetunit Passenger/Transmission Motor Mount
Mazdaspeed CAI
Mazdaspeed CBE
Cobb SRI w/K&N filter
ETS 3.25" TMIC (black powdercoated)
Turbosmart Hybrid BOV

so i've been offered free e-tunes from custom performance engineering. i have had their standback for awhile but haven't used it yet since the cobb ap has been serving me well. most people that go to big turbos end up switching to the cp-e sb because they have flashes that supposedly "lift the wall" holding us back from real power. i'm not sure if this still holds true since cobb recently updated the ap software and added a bunch of tables/options.

that said, since it's free.99 i figured i'd try and compare the two tuning solutions. i still have my turbo and downpipe around.... it's been tempting since it seems like the k04 may be more detrimental to our engine (too much low end torque) than a larger turbo... and my turbo intermittently smokes (common problem). i'd have to get a new exhaust housing for the turbo, a manifold, and a external wastegate still (and probably a clutch)... so that's probably not going to happen soon.

go big or go home

I hope you autox this thing next year Derrick!

at the track in belle isle, the one at eastern was small as hell

yeah i only made it to the corvette one this year

here are the dynographs.. i went down and wanted to compare the Cobb Accessport street tune to a Custom Performance Engineering Standback protune.
Unfortunately, I'm having a wga issue, can't hold stable boost with either the standback or the accessport... wgdc's are at zero or very low and i still can't hold boost. it has a 18psi spring which isn't helping since there's very little resolution to play with. probably going to swap to the oem wga and hope the one that came on the new turbo i put in was better than my last one. If I go back to MD, the guy offered to tune me again though.. so we'll see!



300whp/~325tq with CP-E Standback, 286whp/~340tq with Accessport ATR. Lots of low end tq with the AP, more top end power with the SB... not sure why there is such a difference down low. Hopefully I can get it sorted and retune! Not bad on a mustang dyno though!


Boost curves




I'm back on the AP tune right now because I'm too lazy to do a proper install of the SB for now. I think the AP tune is actually faster looking at the graphs.

So sick man

doing several things - probably going to swap my wga but i forgot to bring it to my parents house so i'm leaving the car disassembled. i was hunting for a fuel leak and the hardline seemed to be leaking a little - seemed tight but i loosened it and tightened it up again, hopefully that solves it. i also installed new motor mounts (these took 2 years to get released. i was running streetunit motor mounts which is what they're being compared to in the following pics:

here are side-by-side comparisons vs. the su mounts i'll start a thread with these pictures and my impressions when i get to driving it. just by look and feel, the quality on the cp-e mounts seem to be on another level. as the old adage goes.. you get what you pay for. i am happy there's no vertical bolt on the driver's side supporting the trans anymore.

sorry some of them aren't focused well, i was taking them in my badly lit, cold ass garage while i was installing them.

yes, i know my engine bay is filthy - no undertray + oil mishap = never clean.

Passenger mounts:







Drivers:






bottom part installed:




top plate on:

Erin is running su motor mounts all the way around so I am looking forward to your comparison. Pretty straight forward install. The cp-e mounts do look alot more "beefy".

.

oh i was going to see if you wanted to buy them, maybe phil will, but doubtful you need a project thread here...

i was still getting a fair amount of motor rocking with these and added 4th "kicker" mount. i thought the culprit might be a torn cp-e rmm but it only had a very small tear (i'm getting the bushing replaced anyway though). hope these do better... they were tested on race cars so they should do the trick..

.

well i found another problem. i have a 4th kicker mount - when i installed it i notice dit didn't line up like everyone elses - but i didn't think much of it. when i was under there again i ended up taking a pic and asking the manufacturer about it - guess my subframe is totally off center. it was dropped when the front sway bar was put in several years ago... guess when it was bolted back on it wasn't on straight. not sure how to go about centering it properly yet, but it's another thing added to the list of things to do.

Gay bro. That really sucks.

Ut oh. So do the first three mounts attach to the frame rails or firewall? I've never heard of that happening before

it's from when the front swaybar was installed, had to drop the subframe to do that - not anything to do with the mounts.

anyway it doesn't really matter - my alignment is fine, the subframe location isn't causing any problems - i talked to someone that has a friend that's a mazda alignment specialist (who also did the alignment on my car) and said it doesn't matter as long there isn't problems trying to align the car and if my alignment is ok.

well put the stock wga on - took me fucking forever to get the c-clip off the wga arm. was super paranoid about dropping it and not being able to find it. finally used a small mirror (since it's all the way back near the firewall but on the backside of the motor) and got it off. i celebrated my success for a minute - then proceeded to take off the vac lines when i snap off a nipple off the stock plastic pos BCS.

luckily i have a grimmspeed ebcs lying around so i guess i have to install that now. i should just put on a bigger turbo already....

finally. cp-e mounts on, got a new bushing for my rear cp-e mount, put the oem WGA on, installed the grimmspeed 3-port EBCS. doesn't sound like a lot, but boy were the last two things a PITA. I also noticed that my downpipe is being held on by 3 stud/nuts instead of 5. i don't know how the other 2 stud/nuts just came out... ???

i'll have to find replacement bolts... or just go bt already. i just need a tial v-band exhaust housing for my fp hta3076, a tial mvs, a steedspeed manifold, and lines....

Congratulations!! I hate it when I do like two or three things to my car and I feel so proud of myself. Than some jerk comes and ruins it all by reminding me that it was not that much that I did. Also yea, WG c clips can be a BITCH. I remember when we took Kash's off ...omg that was frustrating.

i got upgraded fuel injector seals - i think one of they blew and is causing phantom knock..

anyone want to help with the swap sometime? would be way easier with a lift...

xcoldricex wrote:

i got upgraded fuel injector seals - i think one of they blew and is causing phantom knock..

anyone want to help with the swap sometime? would be way easier with a lift...

i have lifts available at the shop, but im only there for 2 hours

tried to get an apexi muffler put on... but there's not really enough room. it's possible but it sticks out really far and ryan @ TRF said it'd be like $200-$250 after materials/labor. not worth the effort i think. i originally wanted to do it so i could get rid of the off-centered jdm angle tip of the hks... but it looks like i'd have to angle this muffler anyway. so i'll just use the muffler on the capri or sell it.






so i just drilled a hole in my hks muffler and put in a apexi active tail silencer. does a good job - need to try more WOT runs to see if fully opens up and sounds normal.. quiets it down A LOT... maybe a bit too much. other alternative was to cut out the current small resonator and use band clamps to put in a bigger vibrant one which would run me about $100.

did injector seals with justin. all of mine looked pretty blown out.



"In the high horsepower quest of the MZR 2.3 DISI, enthusiasts have hit many roadblocks. One of the strangest roadblocks faced was that increasing the horsepower meant increasing the cylinder pressure and as a result the load on the fuel injector seals. The fuel injector is located directly in the cylinder and every time the spark plug fires it sees a tremendous pressure spike. "
seems to be ha
hopefully this corrects the phantom knock i would get at around 5.5k. will have to log and see if i can tell a difference.

It looked like a lot of fun