Thoughts???

I know some of you know stuffs about these.

http://www.autotrader.com/dealers/dda/detail.jsp?dealer_id=50970037&ct=u&car_id=329099295

the Vanos seals, the Expansion Tank for the coolant, water pump, rear sub-frame and bushings, cant remember if the diff bushings were a problem on the E46 or E36, window regulators, then a couple of other things but those should be the most common problems

http://www.bimmerfest.com/wiki/index.php?title=BMW_E46

Thanks bro, I have read that stuff but was hoping for a little more specific info from people on here who have owned and worked on these cars. i.e. Which of these potential issues can I expect to reasonably check during a test drive and how? I also see someone developed a new o ring and seals kit for the vanos but I imagine that has to be a bitch to install??

Waiting for Nicks response.....

The VANOS seals are easy. In fact, most of the engine bay is easier than many Japanese cars. Engine internal and external hard parts are expensive but not very mechanically intensive to replace.

You should check the front and rear suspension bushings and differential bushings, and make sure there are no bent or damaged links. The suspension can become very expensive to maintain, very quickly, and the rear suspension components are a huge pain in the ass to replace. I'd go so far as to say if you're not paying beater price for a BMW, then it should have at least new control arm bushings all around.

Also, if the engine shows any signs of ever being overheated even just once a little bit, pass on it.

That car has 80k+ which means it should come with at least one water pump receipt. Paying full price for it at that mileage also means it should have recently replaced belts and hoses. On a BMW, even small maintenance items should be considered to reduce the value of the car, because so many parts are double price just to start.


If you can cover the absurd cost of maintaining it, they really are true driver's cars. The steering, brakes, clutch, pedals, shifter, gears, diff, seats. Everything is perfect (and expensive to replace .

I see one issue. It's not a manual!

acedeuce802 wrote:

I see one issue. It's not a manual!

are we looking at the same E46? the one im looking at which is the one Phil posted, is a 5-speed

It is a 5 speed with the sport package. The listing is incorrect

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/img_popup.jsp?car_id=329099295&photoIndex=16

dogbreath wrote:

The VANOS seals are easy. In fact, most of the engine bay is easier than many Japanese cars. Engine internal and external hard parts are expensive but not very mechanically intensive to replace.

You should check the front and rear suspension bushings and differential bushings, and make sure there are no bent or damaged links. The suspension can become very expensive to maintain, very quickly, and the rear suspension components are a huge pain in the ass to replace. I'd go so far as to say if you're not paying beater price for a BMW, then it should have at least new control arm bushings all around.

Also, if the engine shows any signs of ever being overheated even just once a little bit, pass on it.

That car has 80k+ which means it should come with at least one water pump receipt. Paying full price for it at that mileage also means it should have recently replaced belts and hoses. On a BMW, even small maintenance items should be considered to reduce the value of the car, because so many parts are double price just to start.


If you can cover the absurd cost of maintaining it, they really are true driver's cars. The steering, brakes, clutch, pedals, shifter, gears, diff, seats. Everything is perfect (and expensive to replace .

Thank mang. Can I check the suspension thoroughly with the car on the ground? Flashlight? How exactly would I determine if the control arm bushings were replaced? Same q with the engine, what are signs it's been overheated?

According to the carfax linked in the ad, the car had "Lower control arm(s) replaced" at 14k miles. That seems a bit odd. Since then it's only had maintenance inspections and an electrical system check within the last few thousand miles.

http://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/p/Report.cfx?partner=ATD_W&vin=6|103|65|59|67|58|-26|4|-36|86|-17|-41|-83|-102|41|65|41|-57|121|111|-61|-96|-61|54

halo0 wrote:

It is a 5 speed with the sport package. The listing is incorrect

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/img_popup.jsp?car_id=329099295&photoIndex=16

Ah, I see!

If it has had a recent inspection, then that shop should have the results of the inspection on record.

You can check the bushings with the car on the ground and a flashlight, but you might not know what to look for. Essentially, every suspension component that moves or flexes has to have a joint of some kind. Just get under there and try to see as many bushings as you can. If they're cracked, they're no good. If they're not cracked, they're fine.
Generally, if most of them are fine, you're good.

The trailing arm bushings can be checked by pushing sideways on the tail of the car just behind the wheel. If you can make the back of the car wiggle laterally, then the trailing arm bushings are worn. These bushings on E36's are an enormous pain in the ass to replace, I've never done them on an E46 but it shouldn't be hard to see if the E46's ones are also a PITA.

The trailing arm bushings and differential housing bushings are the ones you want to pay attention to the most, because they're both labor intensive to replace. The diff bushings will be noticeable when you take off, since it's a manual transmission, you will hear or feel a clunk in the back of the car as the differential rocks. Especially if you just reversed out of a space, then give it a little as you let out the clutch to go forward.

The front suspension parts aren't as big of a deal. The lower control arms are expensive, but nothing is particularly laborious to replace. Also, you can pretty much tell if it needs something by driving it around some corners and over bumps. If it doesn't feel like your hands are directly connected to the wheels, then your BMW's front suspension needs work.


To check to see if it has been overheated, check for burnt oil on the dipstick (dark coloration of the dipstick where oil normally sits, even with the current oil wiped off), burnt oil inside the valve cover (pop the oil fill cap off and shine your light inside), and you should do the typical headgasket checks since it's quick and easy and you're paying a lot for the car. If the dipstick smells like gasoline or has antifreeze on it, the car needs something internal to the engine fixed.
Overheating a low tolerance engine like every BMW engine ever drastically reduces the lifespan of every part, even the ones that weren't immediately damaged.

Not to mention how weak the cooling system is on these cars. Basically, between 60k and 100k, the cooling system needs rebuilt... Unless you make the correct choice of aftermarket parts.

rear trailing arm bushings sound like cake: http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showpost.php?p=7762924&postcount=5

Thanks Corey!

The specialized tool is the key part of that post

Well yeah I did note that

Sooo who wants to come test drive with me (Nick)?

And WTF is with this True Price crap? Does that mean they will refuse to negotiate even if there is stuff wrong with it?

halo0 wrote:

Well yeah I did note that

Sooo who wants to come test drive with me (Nick)?

And WTF is with this True Price crap? Does that mean they will refuse to negotiate even if there is stuff wrong with it?

Depending on where and when, I'd be happy to come with and look it over. I'm not a pro anymore but I can still spot nasty problems.

excellent post Corey!!!

I appreciate the offer! But I wouldn't expect you to brave Hell and high water to come to A2!

First and foremost, you want to check for rust. In the late 90s, Bmw made a change in the quality and source of steel used to produce the unibody of their vehicles. As a result, you have batches of E46s that have rust that begins within the actual steel. Check the sills, doors, inside the door jams, and along the bottom of the trunk.

Everybody else has pretty much hit everything else. In regards to overheating, most e46s have been overheated at some point in time. The m54, while all aluminium, is still very robust. If the head is warped, you will probably know by either, smokey exhaust, milky oil on oil cap, or milky coolant or it will over heat while idling for greater than a few minutes.

As far as rear sub-frame bushings, I can almost guarantee that they have never been done on that vehicle. It is very rare that they ever get replaced. In fact, working at the Bmw dealership for nearly three years, I never once saw them replaced. With that said, it is a good idea to do so.

Also, in regards to the rear subframe bushings, look for front and rear strut town deformation. They rear strut towers are the most vulnerable. The biggest and most common issue with E46s, especially sport pack, 5 speed/6 speed models are torn rear sub-frame mounts. You can tell if this vehicle has this issue by simply listening for clunking sounds during acceleration or between shifts. If you have a PPI done, it is also usually fairly easy to see on a lift. There are 4 mounting points, usually only one will tear, however I have heard of instances where all 4 will tear.

Also be prepared for lots of oil seepage. Bmw motors, especially VANOS motors tend to always develop many minor gasket failures. Don't be alarmed unless the vehicle is leaving a deposit wherever it sits. While I do advocate for replacement of as many gaskets as you have the time/energy/money to do, understand that these small leaks pose no real threat to you and are essentially a battle that you will never win (short of resealing the whole motor).


If you would like me to come with you Phil, just send me a message on FB when you would like to go and I would love to lend a hand.

The E46 subframes tear out too? Damn. At least it's not hard to reinforce them.

Dang, it's starting to sound like this might not be the best car for a dd

Thanks for the info and the offer. I was hoping by now that I'd have some serious inquiries on my car but so far not. Kind of waiting on that before I go look at it. I did get a call yesterday from Mike at Dunning saying he saw my ad on autotrader and would love to "buy the car out from under me."

Mike? I don't even know who that is haha.

Yep. I'm gonna stop by tomorrow maybe just to see how low the ball is.

He must be a new guy over at Toyota. If he pisses you off too much, just come on over to Subaru :p

Are you guys like separate operations? I kinda figured the used car business was shared. You gonna be there?